OK, I'm going to try and recreate an article that was written a couple years ago now for a farm magazine, pertaining to the hand digging of a modern water well. This is
NOT the original article! If your trying to compare it, you're in for a shock. The original was pretty straightforward with more pictures and a lot less opinion. This is the pre-edited version, with all it's warts and freckles.
Oh, on a related note, I highly recommend the movie "The Egg and I".
The movie is in black and white and introduces, in minor rolls, the characters of "Maw and Paw Kettle". it's a fair representation the creation of a homestead farm early in the century. It's a dry comedy.
Hope you like it.
Digging a New Water Well
After a decade of owning this farm, and having children graduate and move away then move back in with me, It’s has recently become evident that we simply need more water.
Living with 4 women and only two bathrooms has been difficult at times. fortunately being a farm boy, I have the ability to “go” outside, when nature calls.
But there are times that my water well just simply can not keep up with the demands of a modern family.
I’m sure that previous generations found this supply quite adequate for their needs, but we have different standards today.
My Great Grandparents would frequently wear the same outer clothes for several days, washing only undergarments frequently, and bathing only once every several days, opting to ’sponge’ bathe as a “daily” routine. Something that is unthinkable to my children.
Besides, today we have, Ice makers, dish washers, and High capacity clothes washing machines.
I experimented with using cisterns as a method for “banking” water for outside use, washing walkways, watering farm animals, and washing the automobiles, but being at the mercy of the weather and the limiting nature of a cistern made it clear, a rain barrel - no matter how large - just wasn’t the solution to the problem.
I needed another well!
Our home is, (as of 2009) 104 years old. And in that century, the structure has gone through a number of remodels. I’m quite sure that when the house was built, it was constructed without “bathrooms” in mind, and that these rooms were later added within existing space. The largest of the bathrooms looks like it was carved out of the space of an existing porch which was later incorporated into the house proper. I’ve came to that conclusion because of the window systems used in that particular room, and the fact that the bathroom is separated from that room by what looks like an outside wall. This room has a hidden window which looks into what is now an existing room, both sides of the window now covered by sheet-rock. I only mention this to demonstrate how different the generations view water needs and usage. But I’ve concluded that this generation needs another water source. hence my decision to dig a new well.
Two years ago, my closest neighbor, decided that, like me, he was tired of paying the exorbitant prices that the city of Ardmore charges for providing water services, and he hired a company to dig him a water well, $2,000. dollars later he had a hole in the ground, another $4,000. dollars later he had a working water well. Based on that information, I decided to go a different route.
In my lifetime, I have been present or assisted in the digging of 4 water wells. The most recent, and the deepest of these wells, was in the mid 1980’s.
My father in law had decided to dig a well in his backyard after the city of Derby Kansas, started rationing water during a particularly nasty drought. He decided that he needed the well to get around the restrictions on watering his rather large vegetable garden. And I agreed to help.
He carefully chose a spot close to the house and near his back porch.
In the mid 1980’s, and in Wichita Kansas, an individual could rent an extend-able hand auger system, however in 2009 in Ardmore Oklahoma, the three rental businesses, could not even grasp the concept of what it was that I was asking for.
The equipment needed is fairly simple. An extend-able hand driven auger and a quantity of pipe in variable lengths to fit the handle of the auger.
When I inquired about the rental of such a device at a national equipment rental company, the teenager behind the counter, gave me the longest, open mouth, blank stare, that I have encountered in a number of years, in fact it was so remarkable that I deliberately allowed it to go on for an amazing amount of time before I said anything just to see how long it would last. I really wish that it had been captured on film. When he began to finally say something, I stopped him and I started to give a detailed description of the tool and explain the function. He called a manager, who was not much older. Again I started to give a brief description of the tool and it’s function, when this time, I was stopped, and told that there was no such thing in their inventory and to have a blessed day as he showed me the door. I got a similar response at the other two local equipment rental businesses,
I was not deterred.
I searched the local hardware stores looking for the required machine, thinking that maybe I’d purchase the devise, but with no avail.
I then went online, looking for the auger, and I found several models that looked like they might work, but I wasn’t willing to gamble a hundred bucks on a poor photo and a bad description.
When I finally found what I was looking for, it was at a farm store, it wasn’t perfect, and it would have to be modified but at least I had one in my hands.
I bought it and took it home.
The shaft wasn’t adjustable, and was welded to the handle and the drill head. so we cut the handle off, and re-welded a pipe fitting onto the shaft, giving me the ability to add lengths of pipe to the shaft, thus allowing me to extend the drill farther down the hole as I dug.
Now that I had the tool assembled, I was ready to dig.
There are three methods to finding water underground,
The first involves a medieval technique that utilizes a form of magic, known as “dowsing”. This involves a “special” pair of bent rods, and the user’s inherited ability to tap into some sort of energy field. This “dowser” will walk around holding the rods in front of him or her till the energy of the universe causes the rods to cross, indicating where the well should be dug.
The second method, known as “a reading“, by the practitioners of this particular madness, involves “reading” the “lay” of the energy fields. These fields are known as “Lay Lines”, by reading the lay of the land they determine where the subterranean water can be found. Apparently, the practitioners can determine this using a variety of devises, which includes a tuning fork and a device that is far more sensitive to magnetic fields than a compass, known as a magna
ton! (not to be confused with a magne
tron, which is something real). Apparently a “lay line”, which is something real by the way, causes the topography and the vegetation in the area, in of one these fields, to be affected, and to take on a certain aura that can be "read" by these devices indicating where water can be found.
There is a third method, and one that I’m particularly fond of, a method that (oddly enough) seems to work just as often as the first two methods. This method is called “WAG‘ing”. It involves an individuals “special” ability to disbelieve in the effectiveness of the first two methods - and a stubborn belief that he may have to dig a couple holes to find water. The beauty of WAG-ing is that you don’t have to put up with voodoo, witchcraft or magic. WAG-ing (wild ass guessing),(a modern military term) is an individuals ability to “take a shot” and move on from there if he’s wrong! and the only equipment necessary is a two sided coin and your ability to toss it and catch it again.
OK, once you “WAG” your location, and you start to dig, you may want to create a cover like a piece of plywood to cover the unfinished hole so that a passing chicken or goat doesn’t fall in or break a leg when your not looking. And if your digging alone, you may want to cut a small hole in the middle of your plywood, in which to pass the downward pipe, this will allow you to clamp off the pipe when your pulling the drill head up from the bottom of the hole to empty the dirt from the previous round of drilling. Pipe must be removed from the rig as you pull it up (or you’ll have a hundred foot of pipe above your head), the clamp allows you to hold the weight of the pipe in a stable position while you remove a section of the pipe.
This may also be a good time to discuss your “everything went to hell” recovery system. If your working alone and the clamp slips while your handle is off the rig, you could be spending a large amount of quality time alone, fishing your drill head out of a hundred foot hole with a treble hook and a heavy line, or you can plan for the worst and attach a string cord or rope to the drill head and allowing it to twist up the pipe to the top of the hole. Yes it will be a pain in the butt to untwist this line each time you need to dump a drill load, but it could save you from the tremendous frustration of “drill fishing ”.
There is one final piece of equipment that may or may not be needed, but is prudent to have around. A real lucky dig may not encounter a rock, but if you do, then you may need a tool called a “star drill”. This tool is basically a reinforced and oddly shaped punch, designed to “drill” through masonry or concrete by driving it into the material with a large hammer. If a star drill becomes necessary, then one must be welded to a length of pipe so that you can replace the auger head with the star drill on the end of your rig, this allows you to place it down the hole, then beating it with a hammer till you break the offending rock. The alternative is to find a new location and start all over again. And don't forget the wheelbarrow, shovel, and place to dump the dirt you'll be excavating.
Ok, your digging along, and at some point you will find that the material that your extracting from the hole will become finer and wetter. Your almost there. Keep digging and soon you will find that the drill is coming up almost empty and very wet. Wet sand is also a good indication that you’ve gone far enough. now that your done digging and you’ve found water, (yea!) what next.
You need to finish out the well.
It may take several hours for the well to fill with water, now you need to measure the pipe that you were using to dig the well. This will give you some idea of how much casing pipe you’ll need.
I was recently told a story, by an elderly gentleman, about a water well that his father dug when he was a child living in Arkansas during the depression. This old man’s father decided that the family needed a water well close to the house since the family had to carry water in buckets from a spring that was about a quarter mile away.
Apparently this well project involved a shovel, a bucket tied to a rope and a couple of home made, and makeshift ladders. His father dug about a 4 foot diameter hole, some 30 or 40 foot deep with the family rising the dirt filled bucket from the hole with the rope, after he hit water, they retracted the ladders from the hole and built a block and tackle rig above the hole. He then told me that the well provided the family with drinkable water for about 6 weeks. One morning they woke up to discover that the well walls had collapsed destroying the well. Leaving a massive sink hole close to the house.Then it was back to the buckets and the spring.
The moral of the story is that the well isn’t done till it’s “cased“.
There are numerous opinions on how, and with what material you need to case your well shaft. In previous decades people thought that a well casing needed to be thick, heavy, and solid, today that means expensive.
The water well that I inherited from the previous inhabitant of this farm is cased in 6” steel pipe with a PVC lining. Wow!, just a bit of overkill. The current opinion seems to be that a PVC casing by itself is good enough. The well that my father in law dug had a partial lining of thin walled PVC and it seems to be doing just fine after 25 years.
Today you can purchase a 6” perforated thin walled PVC pipe that is that is designed for a septic system’s “Leach” field. Inexpensive and completely adequate to keep your well open and flowing.
Once you’ve acquired the casing pipe, glued it together and placed it into the hole, allowing about a foot clearance above ground level, your ready to create the “well head”. This is typically a small concrete slab that surrounds and secures the casing pipe. An alternate purpose for the slab is a platform in which to mount the necessary equipment that you may require for the operation of an active water well. A jet pump and a pressure tank as well as the electrical and pressure systems. Not all wells use these systems but you may find them necessary for your situation. I use a submersible pump and a tower pressure system, so the only thing coming out of this casing is a single water pipe and a single wire going into the casing. The tower system provides for a method of pumping the well during inactive periods and at night while my family sleeps, banking a volume of water to be used during periods of heavy use. This method is highly effective for a low volume or low producing water well.
Beyond whatever pumping and delivery method you decide is best for your situation, you need to cap the wellhead with some kind of covering, keeping dirt and debris from falling into the well. And depending on your local climate, you may need to cover your equipment with some kind of insulated housing. Any exposed pipe will also need to be insulated from frost, freezes and inclement weather.
This is a simple description of a complex procedure, I
HIGHLY recommend that you do your own research, the method that I've described here is complicated and labor intensive, it helps to have some assistance. And this method may not be the solution for you.